The New Oakmoss Fragrance ~ Niche Perfumery

Ormonde Jayne, the British niche perfumery that is the brainchild of Linda Pilkington and the creative mastery of perfumer Geza Schoen, has been in the premium perfume business for over 18 years, gathering the choicest ideas in perfume making and infusing artisanship and technical artistry into a true luxury product. Linda’s goal has always been one of attending to a sophisticated luxury that would appeal to a customer after detail. From her wonderful eponymous woody fragrances for men and for women respectively (with the ingenious inclusion of hemlock, who had thought of that up till then?), to her armchair pirate Four Corners of the World collection, the line’s fragrances unite a very contemporary sensibility with old-world glamour, also reflected in the location of the Royal Arcade at Old Bond Street, where the Ormonde Jayne boutique staff caters to customers after that special touch.
 

Ormonde Jayne Bond Street location

Ormonde Jayne flagship boutique nestled in the heart of Bond Street
 

Evernia prunastri is Latin for oakmoss, the aromatic extraction that has been so bemoaned for being rationed in contemporary compositions due to IFRA regulations.  The material grows on oak trees and conifers across the Northern Hemisphere and is then transported to Grasse, where it is cleaned and extracted into an absolute. Evernia by Ormonde Jayne is a modern take on a classic and is in keeping with the brand’s gender-free philosophy.

The overall impression of the new fragrance is of soft interlacing flowers; lily, freesia, orris, and violet, fanned with the unmistakable aroma and tenacity of oakmoss, which helps anchor the scent for a long, long time. “The sign of a good perfume is when it smells extremely good on your clothes the day after you have worn it as a happy reminder,” Linda clarifies.

Moroccan rose adds sweetness, and from cardamom comes an intense wave of spice. Cashmeran, sandalwood, and musk give Evernia its underlying softness and sensuality. Wear Evernia on any occasion when you want to feel at your alluring best!

Evernia by Ormonde Jayne perfume bottle

 

 

Edition 2021

 

HEAD

CASSIS ABSOLUTE, SICILIAN BERGAMOT, CARDAMOM, PINK PEPPER AND

CORIANDER SEED

 

HEART

ORRIS BUTTER, LILY OF THE VALLEY, FREESIA, JASMINE, VIOLET, AND MOROCCAN

ROSE ABSOLUTE

 

SOUL

OAKMOSS, CASHMERAN, SANDALWOOD, MUSK, OPOPONAX, AND ISO-E-SUPER

 

Ormonde Jayne fragrances are housed in simple, elegant flacons made of thick glass, placed inside the brand’s signature mandarin and ebony boxes. The fragrances are available in Eau de parfum concentration and made-to-measure parfum, the concentration of which is selected by the customer. Select fragrances from the line are also presented as scented candles, body creme, body lotion, and bath oil.

 

The price for Evernia in 50ml Eau de Parfum is £110/€135 while 120ml costs £160 / €195. A testing set of 5x8ml is available for £90 / €110.

 

 

News Comments

Write your comment

MrsYes

Musk Deer

MrsYes

I’m just going through my oakmoss phase and was so excited to see Evernia advertised! But as soon as I saw cashmeran in the notes it was the end of business for me… This is a pass for me.
Schubertian

Schubertian

Thank you for the responses, @Andy the Frenchy and @Elena Vosnaki!
Elena Vosnaki

Al Misk

Elena Vosnaki

@Olympe,
There is no bait and switch, the company does not divulge the formula (good on them).
There can be real natural oakmoss in fragrances, up to a specified percentage (exactly like Andy the Frenchy specifies), the producers of the raw material have almost divested it of atranol, which is the skin sensitizing agent in oakmoss, so there is low atranol natural oakmoss available for use by fragrance brands, alongside the many synthetic variants which can be used to boost the overall effect as well.
So the question of the raw material of the chord itself is a moot point; the axis of the matter relies on the artistry and craftsmanship of the fragrance as a whole IMHO.
Olympe

Olympe

The way this is written really just makes it feel like this is actually a bait and switch, just evoking the idea of real oak moss, but that actually in this fragrance there is little to no real oak moss and that this is just more synthetic wizardry. And because it is synthetics that last a while they are hoping you do not actually know what the real thing smells like so you just assume the longevity of some of the aromachemicals means it must be real.

Geza Schoen is an excellent perfumer, but there is no substitute for real oak moss. It just does not exist. Having smelled the real thing, nothing compares, there is no synthetic replacement.

Andy the Frenchy

Gucci Guilty Cologne pour Homme

Andy the Frenchy

@Schubertian: ‘restriction’ is often mistakenly understood as ‘ban’. It’s not banned, just limited, and many fragrances seen as ‘oakmoss-centric’ from the past where already beyond the limit, way before IFRA issued their guidelines in 2014 – noting that guidelines are guidelines, not rules or laws, and potentially any house is free to do what they think is best.
Also, Geza Schoen (the perfumer with whom Ormonde Jayne worked nearly exclusively from the start), is known for his line Escentric Molecules, fragrances composed exclusively with synthetics. Although Ormonde Jayne does work also with naturals, I have no concern in Geza Schoen making a great oakmoss accord with or using exclusively aromachemicals.
Anyways, it happens often that the name of a fragrance does not match the dominant note(s), and it’s not impossible that it will be the case, here. Hope it helps!
Schubertian

Schubertian

This sounds like an interesting perfume to sample. What I’d really want to know, though, is how they’ve tackled the oakmoss given the restrictions on its use (and yet they named the perfume after it). Presumably the “star ingredient”, then, is in fact real oakmoss? Or is it some molecular composition that approximates the real thing. I’m quite ignorant about perfumery but really curious about this.

Write your comment: Ormonde Jayne Evernia: The New Oakmoss Fragrance

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