Boucheron de Boucheron pour Femme (1988) ~ First Fragrances

Jewelry brands have something inherently posh about them, while in the business of launching fragrances. They don’t need to toil much to instill a sense of quiet splendor, of assured self-confidence, of dripping luxury – it’s a given. From Cartier to Bvlgari, this is evident for all to see. Boucheron is another such brand, founded by Frédéric Boucheron in 1858, with quality fragrances all around. Their first one for women continues to be a masterpiece, even after reformulations in the intervening years.

Boucheron pour femme first fragrance, picture of bottle wih orange blossoms and amber in background from Interparfums

Boucheron for women from the 1980s, you see, is a symbol of splendour, tradition and elegance – a classic floral oriental fragrance which brought the acclaimed jeweler into the foray of perfumes in one fell swoop. Boucheron’s designers created this elegant perfume in 1988, and it was inspired by the art of Parisian goldsmiths from the legendary Place Vendôme. The fragrance in extrait de parfum concentration is shaped like the brand’s rings, topped with a huge blue cabochon stone, while the eau de toilette and eau de parfum versions also share the symbolic shape of a ring.

The perfume was created by perfumers Francis Deleamont and Jean-Pierre Bethouart in 1988. The company owning parfums Boucheron nowadays, InterParfums, presents it “as the olfactory expression of Boucheron’s unique High Jewellery values, this eponymous fragrance pays homage to mystery, seduction and sensuality.” They go on describing their intended audience as “embodying beauty and generosity, this woman is sensual, refined and charismatic.” I couldn’t really argue; it does produce such feelings, intense beauty, total abandon.


Boucheron de Boucheron original style bottles and body lotion collection Fragram photo


photo by Two Petals on

A collection of four perfumes by Boucheron, called Parfums de Joaillier (Jeweler’s Perfumes), was introduced in 2007. The design of the bottles was inspired by this house’s jewelry creations and they too seem like a metamorphosis of a jewel into fragrance bottles. There are initials of P and J (Parfums de Joaillier) on the bottles  written in gold and silver.

According to our database info, the basic notes for Boucheron for women eau de parfum are sweet floral-fruity ones, with a spicy note of basil and the bitterness of pelargonium, which slowly receives intensity with ylang-ylang, tuberose, daffodil, orange blossom from Morocco, and jasmine. The base, which is as opulent and elegant as the whole composition, encompasses civet, benzoin, woody notes, Tonka bean, Indian vanilla, oakmoss, ambergris, and musk.

Everything and the kitchen sink too, as they say, right? InterParfums is trying hard to harness this effluvium of scents into a more streamlined pyramid for contemporary consumers who are afraid of “heavy” scents. They claim:

Olfactory family: oriental floral

Top notes: bergamot, mandarin, neroli
Middle notes: jasmine, ylang-ylang, tuberose
Base notes: amber, vanilla, sandalwood

With a (formerly) Byzantine formula of intricate and lush notes in the given pyramid, comparable to such plush creations as 24 Faubourg and Creation by Ted Lapidus, Boucheron for women eau de parfum is a case in point where the magic of aromachemicals shines brightest and most impressively. It’s Titanic in scope, Olympian in awe-inspiring splendor, operatic like a Latin American singer.

Serena Quintanilla Perez

Selena Quintanilla-Pérez via wikimedia commons

Allegedly it was the late Selena Quintanilla-Pérez’s favorite fragrance, and the image of the flamboyant singer, actress and businesswoman, with the untimely and unjust death, fits with the larger than life aura of the fragrance itself. She was embodied by Jennifer Lopez in her earlier days in the film Selena, if you recall.

When the public is not trained to recognize quality even when it slaps it in the face, Aphrodite of Milos remains a dry exhibit in a museum, enclosed and remote, instead of causing daily bliss, or what is called εὐδαιμονία in Greek. Literally, “benevolent spirit,” one which spreads like waves around. And yet, as Aphrodite from the foam of the waves of the imaginary sperms of Francis Deleamont and Jean-Pierre Bethouart, Boucheron Femme eau de parfum jumped into the sea of the market in 1988. 

Like an eternal woman, she smells, with the precision of an experienced calligrapher on thick moiré paper stained in precise ink; the sweetness of orange blossoms, the elegance of bergamot, the marble solidity of benzoin, sandalwood and amber, all conspiring to shine brightly like cognac diamonds masquerading as semi-precious stones to the untrained eye. Because above all, Boucheron is what the French love to call “un parfum bijou” – a piece of olfactory jewelry to wear as such.

Boucheron pour femme modern bottle presentation

The bottles were modernised around the millennium, with a more streamlined presentation that indicated a more contemporary and –alas!– less luxurious aesthetic. The metal “ring” replaces part of the huge cabochon-cut cap.

vintage recharge bottle in metal container Boucheron pour femme

There was also a columnal metal gold case with ridges, which held a recharge in plain glass spray; this was also available in Jaipur.

The modern box by Boucheron also changed; older boxes are all over cobalt blue, while newer boxes boast a circle of straw-color with the logo of Boucheron inside in the familiar cobalt blue background. Two iterations are available: eau de toilette and eau de parfum. I’m partial to the latter. Whatever you choose, don’t be shy, it’s meant to be used with abandon and indulged in.


splash photo by lautar on

News Comments

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Mémoire d’une Odeur


I wore Jaipur for men, simply fabulous! only for winter week ends nights. A marvellous and intoxicant licquor. But Boucheron for men is similar to Armani ánd YSL for men.

Néroli & Orchidée


The one you find now in stores is bug spray. Shampoo for contrast parasites.
The vintage formula was gold and very different from the others of that time.
In 1988 me and my friend went into a perfumery. We tested many perfumes all over the body, i mean in many different places of the body. She didnt like anything. After 15 minutes we were walking on the road and she said “oh my god! What is it, what it was this one?” Smelling herself and offering me her arm. I said “here you tested Boucheron” “it is gorgeous! I want this, i want this one!” Than we had to run back to the perfumery shop.


This, along with Jaipur (both men’s and women’s) are the most elegant, refined, and understated scents I’ve ever encountered.

Midnight in Paris


I love this perfume, is one of the very few that i found stunning since opening the box
Chouli Galore

Paloma Picasso Eau de Toilette

Chouli Galore

Boucheron Femme is a fantastic perfume and still very wearable and current today. A classic! The late Selena had excellent perfume taste.


I always liked it. If I am not wrong, they changed the bottle again back to the first one.
drugstore classics

Rare Pearls

drugstore classics

Oh, Elena, what a well written love song to a BEAUTY.

I always am drawn to classics containing orange blossom, which may be why I went back and tested Boucheron again in my early perfume days. My first impression was:

Now THIS is perfume!

But I wasn’t certain I could actually wear her…. The bitterness on my skin was a trifle surprising. Over time I’ve come to realize that any touch of bitterness balances out the perfect sweetness and roundness of the other notes.


And YES, I’m also partial to the EDP!


Rouge Hermes

Frayja 11/15/21 15:49

Elena,as always you wrote a great article.Ευχαριστούμε!


Elsee 11/15/21 14:45

Always and forever a perfect, gorgeous, memory-inducing scent! LOVE LOVE LOVE it….
Kathryn J.

160th Anniversary Limited Edition Original Musk Oil

Kathryn J. 11/15/21 12:40

The perfume I was wearing when I met my husband almost thirty years ago. Ordered a bottle last year at the height of the pandemic. It’s still great. Very sophisticated and womanly. You pretty much can’t go wrong if you like big, long-lasting, grown-up women’s scents.

Les Absolus d'Orient Santal Royal

LadyofWahey 11/15/21 12:13

I love this scent as it is my Mum’s signature fragrance – beautiful, timeless, elegant and strong. My Mum has always, always had great taste in everything, including perfume; Boucheron pour Femme embodies everything which is wonderful about her and what I can only aspire to be.

Thank you for this article.


Mon Lys

Anamandy 11/15/21 11:55

Oh, every time I see a picture of Selena my heart flips. I can’t believe this beauty, this talent, was taken away from us. If you want to know how beautiful Boucheron is, take a good look at Selena. It’s no wonder she wore this scent. It is as beautiful as she was.

Tobacco Vanille

Fenissa 11/15/21 11:38

Gotta love Boucheron! Great write up 😍😍

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